hi, jim thompson here. in today’s video,i’ll go over the second set of steps to build this pine sofa table. like i mentioned in the first video, thisproject has been popular for me over the years for gifts, customers even my own house. soif you're looking for a versatile project to add to your line-up, why don’t you givethis table a try. now today i’ll cover the build for the top, the aprons as well as thetwo small drawers. and if you missed the first video for this project, you can check it outby clicking right over here. i’ll start with the table top today. afterrough-cutting the lengths with the skill saw, i’ll layout a grain pattern that looks decent.i also try to minimize any cupping on the
top by alternating the natural curve of eachboard. with positioning done, i’ll mark the order of the stock for the glue-up. next,i’ll rip each piece to equal dimensions. i want my rough-cut top to end-up one halfinch over the finished width. then a couple passes on the jointer and we’reready for glue-up. as always, i’ll do a dry run with the clamps first to get thingsset-up correctly. as i set-up the clamps, i’ll use scraps on the outer edges to minimizeany clamp marks. just like the leg glue-up in the last video,i’ll add glue to both surfaces being jointed. if the joints look good, i’ll mill the topto the finished dimensions and set it aside for the routing and sanding work.
now for the aprons. milling three of the fouraprons is quick work on the table saw. my dimensions are ten and a half by six for theends and forty and a half by six for the back apron. once i’m done on the table saw, iclean-up the edges on the jointer. with the two drawer openings, my front apron requiresa bit more work though. i’ve got five components milled and jointedfor the front apron. i started with the top and bottom, milled to one eighth inch overthe final dimensions. next, i’ll mill the three upright segments. the two ends are alsooversized an eighth of an inch. now, i’ll mark and drill dowels to joint all the componentstogether. after a quick dry run, i’m ready to glue-upthe apron. you want to be sure the assembly
is seated flat in your clamps, so it doesn’tend-up warped after drying. once the glue has dried, i’ll trim the apronto the final dimensions. next, i’ll mill two biscuit joints into each end to mate withthe legs. finally, i’ll mark and drill the holes thatreceive the half inch guide dowels for my two drawers. with the aprons done, i’llstart on the drawers next. i’ll use half inch plywood for the drawer sides and insidefront. the back of the drawer width is one and a quarter inches larger than the sidesto offer room for the guide dowel hole. with the components for the second drawerpre-cut, i’ll start milling the rabbits to joint things together. my rabbits are slightlyoversized, so i can flush trim them after
gluing. now i’ll cut the dadoes to acceptthe drawer bottom. the dado depth is the same as my rabbit depth. with that done, i’lldrill counter-synch holes for the two drawer pulls before i assemble things. now i’ll drill a three quarter-inch holestraight through the drawer back for my guide dowels. just like the other glue-ups for thistable, i’ll start with a dry run to work out any snags. once the drawer glue has dried,i’ll flush trim each rabbit joint with the router. next i’ll mill my drawer faces.i recommend cutting your two faces from a single piece of stock, so the grain patternis consistent. in the next sofa table video, i’ll millthe corner braces and top fasteners and take
care of the rest of the routing and assembly.in the meantime, if you’d like to check out our latest woodworking videos, click righthere to visit to the furniture workshop channel. and if you are interested in woodworking plans,click over here to visit our website. well, thanks for watching and i’ll see you nexttime.